1/17/2024 0 Comments Coleman 200a lantern![]() ![]() I ran it up, it definitely lights from a cold start with less drama as expected. Wasn’t too concerned about making it shine bright, just making sure there aren’t any restrictions. The corrosion though might need a little help with something like vinegar and a stiff brush. There's nothing nostalgic about trying to troubleshoot in the dark, or breakfast is gonna be late while daddy takes the stove apart, this stuff has gotta work at the campground (or for emergency use)Ĭarb cleaner works great for gum and varnish for the air valve and brass parts - yeah be careful with it around paint. If it doesn't work perfectly as advertised I'm not interested. I like vintage gear, but there's a reason people buy new stuff. ![]() Sometimes, the tanks on the old lanterns need a lot of effort to clean up. A lot more confident about the whole affair now after eyeballing the insides.īut even a speck of rust can cause problems if it manages to get in the right spot. This one was real clean, just a few specks of rust came out. Can kind of peak inside and see how clean (or not) the font is. ![]() Another thing I did this morning, he recommends flushing out the tank (after disassembling) with very hot water. What year is your lantern? Mine is a '65. Just check out the Old Coleman website I linked above - it's pretty easy to do if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. If you click here he 'will walk you through every step of the way. And - you can remove the whole basket assembly without damaging an existing mantle! Just be mindful of your knuckles and wrench. You can break down a 200A almost completely with little more than a 7/16 open end. 60 years was a long time ago for a gasoline appliance.Ī shop vise makes removal pretty easy. Cleaning the hidden components thoroughly can only help. My lantern previously ran “OK” but performance seemed to have degraded a bit. That, and penetrating fluid working on it for a year or so didn’t hurt. The last time I went through it, this assembly wouldn’t budge. Clean is your friend, a tiny bit of rust or crud will bugger the whole shootin' match.Įdit: I decided to take my own advice, and get into my own 200A. It's exactly like a carburetor in that sense. I would try that first before getting too deep in the guts, but any older GPA will always benefit from this. It's pretty simple to remove, disassemble, clean and reinstall a 200A generator - but beware - the jet orifice is very small, and it is all too easy to bugger the self-cleaning tip if not careful. The stoves incidentally will exhibit the exact same problem. During start it only uses internal air, if there is crud in the air bleeds or emulsion tubes it will never run quite right when cold at 1/4 turn. It may not be the generator at fault, but rather inside the font, in the fuel pickup assembly. Please remember there are carefully sized and engineered precision orifices and air bleeds and such throughout. This is kind of the acid test for these beasts. It only takes a little tiny bit of corrosion or varnish to cause big issues, and the symptoms you describe are the conditions where where this defect will become evident, a cold start. Did he go through the lantern before selling it? Every lantern might be a little different, I suppose - but as a species, any Coleman lantern should light right up no problem, especially from a cold start and run fine thereafter.
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